{"id":104476,"date":"2022-05-26T08:51:00","date_gmt":"2022-05-26T15:51:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/acousticguitar.com\/?p=104476"},"modified":"2024-11-14T16:15:26","modified_gmt":"2024-11-15T00:15:26","slug":"how-to-shop-for-a-used-guitar","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/acousticguitar.com\/how-to-shop-for-a-used-guitar\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Shop for a Used Guitar"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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When shopping for your next guitar, there are plenty of reasons to consider buying something pre-owned. If you\u2019re shopping for value, you stand to get more for your money in the category of used. And, of course, if you\u2019re in the market for a vintage sound and look, there\u2019s no substitute for the real thing. With a few tricks, you can feel confident heading out into the world of used-guitar shopping. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In this three-part series, I\u2019ll give you some perspective on how to decide what you\u2019re looking for, how to find it, and how to feel good about the money you\u2019ll spend:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Part One<\/a><\/strong>: Let’s talk about where to shop for guitars and how to decide what you’re looking for.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Part Two<\/a><\/strong>: Let’s talk about buying a used guitar that needs repairs\u2014as so many of them do. We\u2019ll cover what tools are useful in inspecting a guitar, what repairs are easily handled, and some common issues to look out for.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Part Three<\/a><\/strong>: Let’s talk about checking out what\u2019s inside the box\u2014braces, bridge plate\u2014to help you shop for a hearty guitar. I\u2019ll also cover how to tell if a guitar has a healthy neck angle\u2014and whether you might need to commission a neck reset for it!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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So, how do you decide what you\u2019re shopping for? Well, what are you interested in? Are you a rank beginner whose only requirement is an instrument that\u2019s playable? Or do you have a crush on a specific guitar, like a 1940s Gibson J-45<\/a> with a banner headstock? I would suggest starting with an idea of what you would love to find, and playing as many instruments as possible. This will help you know what feels natural in your hands\u2014and pleasing to your ears\u2014as well as what you can expect to pay. Don\u2019t rush the process. You\u2019ll learn a lot just by checking around and seeing what\u2019s out there\u2014and if needed, adjusting your idea of what you\u2019re shopping for.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Where should you look for used guitars? You can visit a vintage guitar dealer, try to find a private sale, or bid in an auction. Of course, getting a guitar in your hands and playing it is ideal. This will give you a chance to see whether you really like it, and whether it\u2019s a good example of its model. For instance, two 1965 Martin D-18s<\/a> won\u2019t feel or sound exactly the same.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The internet is a great resource, and you\u2019ll find lots for sale on eBay, Reverb, and the like, but you\u2019ll want to make sure that the seller has good communication skills and allows for returns if the guitar is not as promised or if you simply don\u2019t like it. Wherever you\u2019re shopping, you\u2019ll want to know how to inspect a used or vintage guitar, and I\u2019ll talk more about that process in the next installment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By the way, you can pretty much count on not<\/em> getting a one-off, insanely good deal. We\u2019ve all heard the stories, but those days are over thanks to the internet. With a little time, any seller can figure out fair market value for their instrument, so plan on paying a reasonable and comparable amount for that guitar in your area.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Don\u2019t forget\u2014you will likely need to put some money into repairing an old guitar, so figure that into your budget. (I\u2019ll go into more detail regarding this later in this series.) To start with, most older guitars will need at least a setup\u2014a truss-rod tweak and a saddle-height or nut-slot adjustment\u2014so set aside at least $65 for that. Many instruments will need a lot more, like crack repairs, a neck reset, or a re-fret. If you buy a guitar in a private sale you will generally get the best deal, but consider why it\u2019s being sold. Does it need work that the owner doesn\u2019t want to bother with or doesn\u2019t even know about?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is one of the advantages of shopping at a vintage guitar dealer\u2014they usually have a repair department. It\u2019s true that there will be a markup at a vintage dealer, but it\u2019s not a mystery what you\u2019re paying for. They have sourced a guitar they thought was interesting and marketable, and fixed it as needed, because a piece that\u2019s in good shape commands a higher price than one requiring restoration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A dealer should be upfront with you about what they know about a guitar, including what work it’s had done or might still need. Here is where you\u2019ll go with your gut instinct. Have you heard good things about a particular dealer? Do you like the way they answer your questions, and do you feel trusting of them? You should! Their business depends on you feeling good about the transaction. For a certain kind of shopper, one with a little more to spend and who is looking for some assurance along with their new old guitar, a vintage dealer can be a good choice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In fact, simply going to visit a shop, whether it\u2019s a vintage dealer or a neighborhood music store, really should be in your plans. Don\u2019t just sit at home and look online! Talking to people who know a lot about guitars is so valuable. For example, say you love an older small-bodied mahogany Martin, like a 00-15, but can\u2019t find one you can afford. A dealer in a brick-and-mortar store can help suggest a wonderful substitute, like a Guild M-20<\/a>, the guitar that Nick Drake famously played<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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So you\u2019ve been shopping for your new favorite old guitar, and you\u2019ve done everything right: You\u2019ve got an idea in mind of what kind of guitar you\u2019re looking for, you did some research to get a feel for what things cost in your area, and you\u2019ve started to look at guitars that could work for you. Here are some techniques to help you determine what kind of work a used guitar might require once you bring it home. Remember, pretty much every guitar will need at least a setup (running generally between $60 and $100), so roll that in to your budget from the get-go. A note: The prices I mention below are a general idea and can vary\u2014a lot\u2014depending on where you live and the experience level of your tech. If you are tempted to bargain shop when getting a repair quote, don\u2019t simply hire the lowest bidder! You will get the repair you pay for, especially in the case of a vintage guitar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So to start, give the guitar a\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"AG302_expert_1\"<\/a>
A lower-bout seam separation is the most common one I see. If it has been neatly repaired, like this one, I\u2019m not too worried.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

VISUAL ONCE-OVER<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hold the guitar in your hands, and really have a look at the top, back, and sides. Finish can tell us a story about what\u2019s happened to the guitar; you can see if it\u2019s been damaged by moisture or an impact. Does the finish look pretty consistent? Do any dings or flaky areas catch the eye?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Are there any gaping cracks or seam separations in the body? If the exposed wood isn\u2019t dark and the two sides haven\u2019t warped away from each other\u2014an indication of being open for a long time\u2014cracks are not the end of the world. Likewise, a neatly repaired seam or crack doesn\u2019t worry me too much. If seams are open or there are cracks in need of repair, you\u2019ll need to add $50\u2013$150 to your repair bill.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"AG302_expert_5\"<\/a>
The heel of this guitar\u2019s neck is pulling away. This would likely not be a good buy!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Have a look at the bridge. Is it glued down firmly? Try to slide a piece of paper under the back edge and corners. If it goes under any part of the bridge at all, the bridge needs to be removed and re-glued. This crucial repair cannot wait. If you don\u2019t have a solid glue joint, the sound will suffer, and the top will be stressed and pulled in ways that it wasn\u2019t built to withstand. I recommend keeping the tension off of a guitar until this repair can be done. Imagine adding $150\u2013$300 to your repair bill. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Next, look at the neck joint. Does anything look out of place? Is the finish chipping or discolored along the bottom edge of the heel? This could reveal a previous neck reset, which is not such a bad thing if it was neatly done\u2014it means you don\u2019t have to pay for it! Lots of guitars, including almost all vintage Martins, will need a neck reset in their lifetime. I\u2019ll talk more about how to spot a future neck reset in the next column.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"AG302_expert_3\"<\/a>
Bringing a straightedge can help you see how straight a neck is.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

NECK CHECK<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Now let\u2019s talk about the neck\u2014a crucial element in a guitar\u2019s health. A bit of relief is nothing to worry about, but a lot of relief, a twist, or a rollercoaster up and down are potentially deal breakers. There are a couple of ways to look for a neck\u2019s straightness. Here\u2019s what I do first: I set the lower bout of a guitar down in front of me, and, pointing the neck right at me, I lift the headstock up to one eye. Closing the other eye, I sight along the neck, using foreshortening to see how straight each side of the neck is. This helps to see big irregularities, dips, humps, and slopes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you have a hard time getting this to work for you or want a more precise take, come prepared with an 18-inch straightedge and lay it along the tops of the frets while the guitar is strung up to tension. You\u2019ll be able to see how much relief is in the neck. A good aim is to be able to slip a 0.010-inch feeler gauge under the string at the eighth fret. You and your luthier can tweak it from there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"AG302_expert_4\"<\/a>
This neck set was done to exactly the correct angle, but the technician\u2019s touch-up work was a little rough! You can see how the guitar was taken apart and put back together.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

PLAY THE DARN THING<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

If all looks acceptable to you, here\u2019s your chance\u2014sit with the guitar and play some tunes. Bring what you need to give it a good test drive: your favorite pick, a capo, perhaps a generous friend who can sit across from you and tell you how it sounds out in the room. Ask the guitar to do all the things you wish it would, and take note of any ways it falls short. Here is a good chance to get a feel for the neck, and to see how healthy the frets are. If there are a couple of high or low ones, a fret-dress will likely work, and cost you somewhere from $50 to $150, but if they\u2019ve been played flat and dressed a couple of times already, it\u2019s time to replace them. A refret is more expensive if your fingerboard is bound, or is made of maple or a very brittle ebony, so it would likely cost between $250 and $600.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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When you\u2019re searching for a new-to-you guitar, it pays to be curious about all aspects of your potential instrument\u2019s well-being. So far in this series, I\u2019ve talked about ways to shop for vintage or used guitars: doing a basic once-over to find any issues, scrutinizing a neck, what to think about cracks and seam separations, how to tell if a bridge needs to be re-glued, and what a difference a refret can make.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In this installment I\u2019d like to talk about a couple of ways to get deep when assessing a guitar. First, have a peek inside the body. It\u2019s helpful to bring a mirror and flashlight along when you go to look at a guitar. Think about it like popping the hood on a car\u2014if you know what you\u2019re looking at, you can tell a lot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As always, the prices I mention are a general range. Costs can vary\u2014a lot\u2014depending on where you live and the proficiency of your tech. Don\u2019t be tempted to bargain shop when getting a repair quote! Repairs are like tattoos: you get what you pay for.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"AG303_expert4\"
Worn holes and cracks are signs of bridge plates needing replacement<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Bridge Plates<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

One big reason I look inside acoustic guitars is to check out the bridge plate. This piece of wood\u2014often maple, but sometimes rosewood or another wood\u2014reinforces the top and plays an important role in a guitar\u2019s sound and sturdiness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When you look at a bridge plate, you want to see the strings\u2019 ball ends and the bridge pins popping down through holes that are clean and circular. Sometimes you see a bad pattern of wear. It could be because a softer wood was used to make the bridge plate or because of how it\u2019s been handled. The holes can be ragged or worn, and the wood between them may have been gouged away.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sometimes, if a bridge that\u2019s pulling up goes unglued for a long time, the bridge plate will actually split. If the wear is bad, it may need to be repaired or replaced. This could cost anywhere between $75 and $400, because removing a bridge plate is tough and can be unpredictable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Check out the rest of the inside of the box. If there are cracks, you\u2019ll be able to see if cleats\u2014thin wooden patches\u2014have been used. A couple of cleats and a neatly repaired crack or seam separation are not the end of the world. These fixes generally don\u2019t affect the sound, and you can tell something about the quality of work a guitar has endured by having a look at how neatly this has been done.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"AG303_expert2\"
Bad neck angle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"AG303_expert3\"
Good neck angle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Neck Resets<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

The last thing I want to cover is neck angle, and whether a guitar might need a neck reset. Of course, over time, strings put lots of tension on a guitar. Certain things are bound to give to that tension, and, as the angle of a neck pulls forward and the slight arch built into a guitar\u2019s back flattens out, you might find that the action gets higher and higher. Sometimes, problems are easy to spot: a very short saddle or a bridge that has been shaved down reveals that a previous repairperson tried to fudge things and lower the action without resetting the neck. The guitar won\u2019t sound as good as it could; the break angle over the strings will be shallow and the strings won\u2019t vibrate the top as much as they should.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here\u2019s a quick way to get a general idea of neck angle, but it only works with a pretty straight neck and a full-height bridge. Take an 18-inch straightedge and lay it along the fretboard so that the end touches the bridge. If it sits just on top of the bridge, or almost does, that\u2019s probably a pretty good angle. If it dives towards the top, the angle is too forward, or shallow, and the guitar could need a neck reset.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Don\u2019t let these words make you feel panicked: lots of great guitars, including most vintage Martins, end up needing their neck angle reset over the course of their life. Thinking about price, remember that a reset is a major repair, and some shops always do a refret at the same time. This makes it a hard repair to price, as it could run anywhere from $350 to $1,000. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Even with a repair or two to consider, you still stand to get more for your money when shopping used or vintage. And of course, you can\u2019t reproduce the mojo of a cool old guitar. Hopefully this guide helps you find the perfect, broken-in guitar of your dreams.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Even with a repair or two to consider, you still stand to get more for your money when shopping used or vintage. And of course, you can\u2019t reproduce the mojo of a cool old guitar.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":104479,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"advanced_seo_description":"With a few tricks and tips, you can feel confident heading out into the world of used-guitar shopping.","jetpack_seo_html_title":"","jetpack_seo_noindex":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[1669],"tags":[663,517,516,518],"ppma_author":[1582],"class_list":["post-104476","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-gear-guides","tag-ask-the-expert","tag-february-2018","tag-january-2018","tag-march-2018"],"blocksy_meta":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/acousticguitar.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/usedguitars.png?fit=750%2C500&ssl=1","authors":[{"term_id":1582,"user_id":0,"is_guest":1,"slug":"mamie-minch","display_name":"Mamie Minch","avatar_url":{"url":"https:\/\/acousticguitar.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/11\/Mamie-Minch.jpg","url2x":"https:\/\/acousticguitar.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/11\/Mamie-Minch.jpg"},"user_url":"https:\/\/www.brooklynlutherie.com\/","last_name":"Minch","first_name":"Mamie","job_title":"","description":"Mamie Minch is the co-owner of Brooklyn Lutherie and an active blues player. She is the former head of repair at Retrofret Guitars."}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/acousticguitar.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/104476","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/acousticguitar.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/acousticguitar.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/acousticguitar.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/5"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/acousticguitar.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=104476"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/acousticguitar.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/104476\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":146509,"href":"https:\/\/acousticguitar.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/104476\/revisions\/146509"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/acousticguitar.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/104479"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/acousticguitar.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=104476"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/acousticguitar.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=104476"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/acousticguitar.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=104476"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/acousticguitar.com\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/ppma_author?post=104476"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}